India: A Foreigner’s First Impression

My initial arrival in India was apparently much like everyone else’s.  Two in the morning – or should that be night? You can never be quite sure in Delhi.  Hot and dusty as all my friends in Japan had said when I told them I was going to India.  First experience of an Indian ‘Q’ at an exchange counter; somehow fought my way out with some cherished rupees.  Through the near-absent customs check – keep up now, we’re all in a hurry – and into the maelstrom which, fortunately for me, had at its centre a 20-something guy holding my name on a discoloured piece of A4.  Whisked away without a word into a beaten-up blue van and off into the night.  India smells different from anywhere I’ve been before, I thought.  Driver and his pal got me to the hotel but became angry when I only tipped them Rs. 20.  I trusted no-one, not even the albino gecko on Hotel Vivek’s lobby wall, until I was locked away in my room and could put my head down on a pillow and…

…sleep.

…read more at The NRI…

Indian Students in Tech Elite

“It has really been a dream come true for all of us.” Aranya Choudhury probably never imagined he would stand inside the most advanced high-energy physics research facility ever created.  The Large Hadron Collider became operational on 10th September 2008, and Choudhury, 20 years old, was one of 11 Indian undergraduate students selected to spend 8 to 13 weeks there as an intern, rubbing shoulders with some of the brightest minds of our time.

For the uninitiated, LHC is essentially a 27-kilometre-long tunnel concealed beneath Switzerland.  It’s the flagship project of CERN (the European Organisation for Nuclear Research) and is designed to smash the tiniest known particles into each other with the intention of, among other things, recreating the conditions present at what we call The Big Bang.  As a layman, perusing documents and articles explaining why it came into being, who brought it to fruition and what potential discoveries it may trigger visions of a sentient technology that could finally bring about the human apocalypse à la the Terminator or Matrix films.  “The Large Hadron Collider begins to learn at a geometric rate.  It becomes self-aware at 2:14 a.m. Eastern time, December 7th.  In a panic, we try to pull the plug.”  Something like that.

Who Wants To Be An NRI?

My first full-time job was at a BP petrol station in a heavily immigrant-populated suburb in Auckland, NZ.  Fresh out of high school and with two months to kill before heading down south for university, there was no way my mum would let me lounge around the house all summer, so off I went into the bottom end of the job market.  The staff were a wonderful motley crew – under a Sri Lankan manager were a few seen-it-all Kiwis, a couple of Chinese, a Saudi, a Pakistani and another new high school graduate like me.

By far the largest complement, however, were the NRI boys; among them a fresher from Hyderabad, a family man from Delhi, a quiet Tamil and a cricket-obsessed Punjabi.  I knew from the proliferation of Indian restaurants and South Asian faces behind convenience store counters that the ongoing influx of NRIs was, by the standards of NZ’s tiny population, an explosion.  I hadn’t actually found myself in a position to interact with them in any meaningful way, though; NZ’s changing ethnic makeup remained something about which I had little understanding.  Until, that is, the day I joined BP.

…read more at The NRI…

Gandhiji the Commodity

Mont Blanc, the Swiss accessories giant, recently launched a limited edition gold pen bearing the image of Mahatma Gandhi to coincide with the great man’s birthday anniversary.  At around US$25,000, it’s hardly a mass market item, but the very idea of it has many people up in arms.  India’s own Gandhiji?  Hero of the masses, champion of equality, reduced to being bought by the wealthy as a status symbol or investment and exploited cynically by a foreign company for profit?  A Kerala advocate, Dijo Kappen, has openly stated his intent to pursue legal proceedings against Mont Blanc, and a public debate has begun.

It’s reasonable to say that the name Gandhi is amongst the top four or five most widely known in the world today.  His image is perhaps even more widely known, and the irony of such a symbol of dignity and non-exclusivity appearing on a precious gold item for the elite is not lost on most.  His mission of nonviolence has impacted and influenced people all over the world, and he has come to belong not only to India and Indians but global society as a whole, so the indignation is coming from all quarters.

…read more at The NRI…

Kick-Starting Indian Football

At the London Olympics in 1948, something happened that even a year earlier would have seemed utterly outlandish, the extravagant daydream of an overly proud Mohun Bagan supporter. The national football team, barely a year after India’s day of independence, were to face off against perennial European powerhouse France in their first Olympic fixture.

And while the pitch may only have been lowly Ilford FC’s Lynn Road ground rather than the hallowed turf of Wembley or Highbury, this historic event took place in England, the home of football. India lost the match 1-2, but Sailen Manna – revered by some as India’s greatest ever footballer – and his teammates could look back on their achievement with pride.

…read more at The NRI…

Aussie Aggro Takes Aim at Indians

Hando: What’d you run into me for?

Tiger: I didn’t mean it, mate, that guy pushed me.
Hando: What’d you run into me for? What are you doing here? *What* are you doing here?
[grabs Tiger by the shoulder]
Hando: I’m gonna tell you something. I want you to listen to me now, OK? This… is… not… your… country.
[proceeds to beat him up]

-‘Romper Stomper’ (1992)

According to recent reports, Australia is not the promised land of barbeques, sardonic wit and running with glee from poisonous things. It’s a place where foreigners, including Indians, get beaten up. With thousands of ex-pats leaving Mumbai, Bangalore, Trivandrum etc. behind each year to work or study in Oz, there has understandably been quite a vocal response in Australia and here in India to the spate of attacks Indian residents endured in Sydney and Melbourne recently.

…read more at The NRI…

Inside or Outside?

So, here in Kerala, I am a ‘saip’, or white man, and will be that before anything else as long as I am here. Whether I’m tucking into beef curry for dinner, wearing a lunghi, sporting an impressive moustache or even someday speaking fluent Malayalam, I am unlikely to ever escape the outsider category I came with.

I experienced a somewhat similar phenomenon in Japan, my previous home. The Japanese approach to foreigners tends to be dominated by the dichotomy of ‘uchi’ (inside) and ‘soto’ (outside). As a foreigner, you are destined always to be ‘soto’, regardless of how Japanese you have become – even if you renounce your country of birth and take Japanese citizenship. You look different, therefore you must be different.

…read more at The NRI…

One Simple Thing I Did To Change My Life

I’m a celebrity!

On the street, heads turn wherever I go; in bars, patrons put down their glasses and look up at me. My presence sets women abuzz with chatter and invites men to look at me with bewilderment or smile with uncontrollable glee…  To think that all this time, I only had to go 7000 miles from home to attain that much-desired ‘women want to be with him, men want to share a beer with him’ status!

The thing is, I’ve done nothing to warrant my celebrity status.  I’m not a successful musician or actor, or even the Paris Hilton-esque ‘famous because I’m famous’.  The simple fact is this:  I am a white man in Kerala, or saip as locals would say in Malayalam.  From New Zealand, via Japan, and settled here for the indefinite future.

…read more at The NRI…